itachisama
This is the build from cyberpower pc. any recommendations? First gaming computer. also it will be around $1780. if you want the link to look at it yourself just ask. my budget is to stay within $1800
Case: Apevia X-Plorer 2 Mid-Tower Case w/ Side-Panel Window and MultiMeter Display [-52] (Black Color with 200mm UV Blue LED Fan)
Internal USB Extension Module: None
Neon Light Upgrade: 12in Cold Cathode Neon Light [+10] (Blue Color)
Extra Case Fan Upgrade: Maximum 120MM Color Case Cooling Fans for your selected case [+15] (Blue Color)
Noise Reduction Technology: Sound Absorbing Foam on Side, Top And Bottom panels [+29]
Anti-Vibration Fan Mounts [+9]
CPU: Intel® Core⢠i7-960 3.20 GHz 8M Intel Smart Cache LGA1366
Venom Boost Fast And Efficient Factory Overclocking: No Overclocking
Cooling Fan: Asetek 550LC Liquid Cooling System 120MM Radiator & Fan (Advanced Cooling Performance + Extreme Silent at 20dBA) [+18]
Motherboard: * (2-Way SLI Support) Asus Rampage III Gene Intel X58 Chipset SLI/CrossFireX LGA1366 mATX Mainboard - Overclockable w/ 7.1 HD Audio, GbLAN, IEEE1394a, USB3.0, SATA-III, RAID, 2 Gen2 PCIe, 1 PCIe X1, & 1 PCI [+57]
Motherboard Expansion Card: None
Memory: 6GB (2GBx3) DDR3/1600MHz Triple Channel Memory Module (Corsair or Major Brand)
Video Card: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 Ti 2GB 16X PCIe Video Card [+129] (Major Brand Powered by NVIDIA)
Video Card 2: None
Video Card 3: None
Dedicated PHYSX Card: None
Multiple Video Card Settings: Non-SLI/Non-CrossFireX Mode Supports Multiple Monitors
Power Supply Upgrade: * 850 Watts - Corsair CMPSU-850TX 80 Plus Power Supply - Quad SLI Ready [+112]
Hard Drive: 1TB SATA-III 6.0Gb/s 64MB Cache 7200RPM HDD (Single Hard Drive)
Data Hard Drive: None
Hard Drive Cooling Fan: None
External Hard Drive (USB3.0/2.0/eSATA): None
USB Flash Drive: None
Optical Drive: 24X Double Layer Dual Format DVD+-R/+-RW + CD-R/RW Drive (BLACK COLOR)
Optical Drive 2: None
Sound: HIGH DEFINITION ON-BOARD 7.1 AUDIO
3D Vision Glasses: None
LCD Monitor: None
2nd Monitor: None
3rd Monitor: None
Speakers: None
Network: Onboard Gigabit LAN Network
Network Switch: None
Keyboard: Razer Lycosa Black USB Gaming Keyboard [+63]
Mouse: Razer Deathadder 3500 DPI High Precision 3.5G Infrared Gaming Mouse [+47]
Mouse Pad: None
Gaming Gear: None
Extra Thermal Display: None
Wireless 802.11B/G Network Card: None
External Wireless Network Card: None
Wireless 802.11 B/G/N Access Point: None
Bluetooth: None
Flash Media Reader/Writer: None
Video Camera: None
Headset: Razer Carcharias Gaming Headset [+66]
Printer: None
Cable: None
Power Protection: OPTI-UPS VS575B 575VA/345W Uninterruptible Power Supply [+46]
Surge Protector: Ultra U12-40629 7 Outlet Surge Protector Black 6 Individual On/Off Switch [+20]
IEEE1394 Card: None
USB Port: Built-in USB 2.0 Ports
Operating System: Microsoft® Windows® 7 Home Premium (64-bit Edition)
Media Center Remote Control & TV Tuner: None
Office Suite: McAfee AntiVirus Plus 2011 [+15]
Games: Street Fighter IV [+9]
Ultra Care Option: Ultra Enhanced Packaging Solution - Protect Your Dream System During Transit [+19]
Professional Wiring for All WIRING Inside The System Chassis - Minimize Cable Exposure, Maximize Airflow in Your System [+19]
Service: STANDARD WARRANTY: 3-YEAR LIMITED WARRANTY PLUS LIFE-TIME TECHNICAL SUPPORT
lol so block wall of text. so basically processors no good? and gpu you guys think i should get the 570 580 too pricy for me lol
but i wanted to buy it in the next couple of weeks so i should
1) what processor?
2) switch gpu to GTX 570
3) get bluray
4) psu down to 750?
ill check out ibuypower and if i drastically change it i will post again with just the basics lolol
Answer
1. Cyberpower is not known for their good building reviews
2. I'd suggest ibuypower, but the best is building it yourself. You can get a better build for less. My machine is less than that somewhat and it has a Core i7 2600K + 8 GB DDR3 1600mhz RAM + Nvidia 570 GTX GPU
3. Caleb is totally wrong about the i7s. Nothing out there beats them at anything now
I'd wait a few weeks then order these parts as replacements
Core i5 2500K CPU @ 3.4 ghz (easily overclockable to 4.5 ghz on air) @ $225 or less at Micro Center
Nvidia 570 GTX or ATI 6970 Radeon video card @ $325-350
8 GB GSkill Ripjaws X 1600 mhz RAM @ $100
ASUS P67 Motherboard @ $150-200
Corsair 700 watt PSU
1. Cyberpower is not known for their good building reviews
2. I'd suggest ibuypower, but the best is building it yourself. You can get a better build for less. My machine is less than that somewhat and it has a Core i7 2600K + 8 GB DDR3 1600mhz RAM + Nvidia 570 GTX GPU
3. Caleb is totally wrong about the i7s. Nothing out there beats them at anything now
I'd wait a few weeks then order these parts as replacements
Core i5 2500K CPU @ 3.4 ghz (easily overclockable to 4.5 ghz on air) @ $225 or less at Micro Center
Nvidia 570 GTX or ATI 6970 Radeon video card @ $325-350
8 GB GSkill Ripjaws X 1600 mhz RAM @ $100
ASUS P67 Motherboard @ $150-200
Corsair 700 watt PSU
Help with transferring data to new SSD...?
HeXz
OK, so I have a 2011 Macbook Pro which I bought with a 750GB 5200rpm hard drive. I have purchased an OWC Mercury Extreme 6G 480GB solid state drive, and want to replace the old drive with it (NOT DATA DOUBLER OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT). Is it possible for me to:
1. Use Carbon Copy Cloner to copy all my files to an external hard drive.
2. Replace HDD with SSD.
3. Boot into the external hard drive,
4. and then using Carbon Copy Cloner, copy the files to the SSD?
In my head this sounds like it would work, but in reality would it?
Any help is appreciated. :)
Answer
All Macbook Pros have exactly the same requirements for an internal HDD / SSD....
-- 2.5" form factor.
-- maximum 9.5mm thickness.
-- SATA connection.
Nothing else matters.
There are several third-party apps you can buy (SuperDuper, Carbon Copy Cloner) that do EXACTLY what OS X's Disk Utility can do if you want to spend money. Almost all Mac users are embarrassingly ignorant of the cloning option ("Restore") in Disk Utility. The first section below is to set up the HDD for booting the computer. The second section is for "Restoring" (cloning) the data.....
-- Install the HDD / SSD in a case and connect it.
-- Launch Disk Utility.
-- Select the whole drive (not it's formatted partition) at left.
-- Select the "Partition" tab.
-- Set the number of partitions (one is enough unless you have a special idea).
-- Set the format of the top or the only partition to "Mac OS Extended (journaled)" and not Case Sensitive.
-- Click the "Options" button.
-- Choose "GUID Partition Table" unless you plan to use one of the partitions in target disk mode with a Windows system (Don't know what that means? Then don't do it.) in which case you could choose Apple Partition Map -- but it would not allow reinstalling OS X from a DVD. Only GUID allows reinstalling from a DVD.
-- Click "Apply", click "OK", click "Partition" (Partition is applied even for only one partition.)
-- When that is done (less than a minute), select the "Restore" tab.
-- Drag the startup volume (such as "Macintosh HD") to the "Source" space.
-- Drag the external Mac volume to the "Destination" space. (The amount of available space on the destination must be the same or larger than the amount of data to be copied from the source.)
-- Click the "Restore" button.
-- Wait... a long time.
When that is done, the external Mac volume will be an exact bootable clone of the original internal volume. All that remains to be done is switch the two drives. No OS installation is needed, because the OS is cloned perfectly from drive to drive. All Software Updates will work just like with the original system. No drivers or apps need to be re-installed. It just works perfectly.
All Macbook Pros have exactly the same requirements for an internal HDD / SSD....
-- 2.5" form factor.
-- maximum 9.5mm thickness.
-- SATA connection.
Nothing else matters.
There are several third-party apps you can buy (SuperDuper, Carbon Copy Cloner) that do EXACTLY what OS X's Disk Utility can do if you want to spend money. Almost all Mac users are embarrassingly ignorant of the cloning option ("Restore") in Disk Utility. The first section below is to set up the HDD for booting the computer. The second section is for "Restoring" (cloning) the data.....
-- Install the HDD / SSD in a case and connect it.
-- Launch Disk Utility.
-- Select the whole drive (not it's formatted partition) at left.
-- Select the "Partition" tab.
-- Set the number of partitions (one is enough unless you have a special idea).
-- Set the format of the top or the only partition to "Mac OS Extended (journaled)" and not Case Sensitive.
-- Click the "Options" button.
-- Choose "GUID Partition Table" unless you plan to use one of the partitions in target disk mode with a Windows system (Don't know what that means? Then don't do it.) in which case you could choose Apple Partition Map -- but it would not allow reinstalling OS X from a DVD. Only GUID allows reinstalling from a DVD.
-- Click "Apply", click "OK", click "Partition" (Partition is applied even for only one partition.)
-- When that is done (less than a minute), select the "Restore" tab.
-- Drag the startup volume (such as "Macintosh HD") to the "Source" space.
-- Drag the external Mac volume to the "Destination" space. (The amount of available space on the destination must be the same or larger than the amount of data to be copied from the source.)
-- Click the "Restore" button.
-- Wait... a long time.
When that is done, the external Mac volume will be an exact bootable clone of the original internal volume. All that remains to be done is switch the two drives. No OS installation is needed, because the OS is cloned perfectly from drive to drive. All Software Updates will work just like with the original system. No drivers or apps need to be re-installed. It just works perfectly.
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